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Hennin & Esconffion

圓錐形尖帽叫做Hennin,兩個角的叫做Escoffion。流行於13 – 14世紀左右的歐洲歌德式藝術風格反應在服裝上的樣貌

Hennin

The hennin /ˈhɛnɨn/ was a headdress in the shape of a cone or "steeple"(尖頂), or truncated (斜截頭的) cone worn in the late Middle Ages by European women of the nobility(貴族). They were most common in Burgundy and France, but also elsewhere, especially at the English courts and in Northern Europe, Hungary and Poland. They are little seen in Italy. It is unclear what styles the word hennindescribed at the time, though it is recorded as being used in French in 1428, probably before the conical style appeared. The word does not appear in English until the 19th century.[3] The term is therefore used by some writers on costume for other female head-dresses of the period.

Conical hennins

These appear from about 1430 onwards,]especially after the mid-century, initially only among aristocratic (貴族的) women, though later spreading more widely, especially in the truncated form. Typically, the hennin was 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) high, but might be considerably higher, as much as 36 inches according to some sources. The tops of some of theseconical hatswere pointed while others were truncated, ending in a flat top. It was generally accompanied by aveil(面紗), formally termed acointoise, that usually emerged from the top of the cone and was allowed to fall onto the woman's shoulders or even to the ground, or was pulled forward over the hennin, often reaching over the woman's face.

The hennin was worn tilted backward at an angle. It was made of light material, often card or a wire mesh (網眼) over which a light fabric was fixed, although little is known of the details of their construction. There was often a cloth lappet, or "cornet" in French, in front of the hennin covering part of the brow, and sometimes falling onto the shoulders to either side. There is very often a "frontlet" or short loop seen on the forehead (right), to adjust the hennin forward, and perhaps even to hold it on in wind.

It was fashionable to pluck or shave the forehead to raise the hairlines. The hair was tied tightly on the scalp and usually hidden inside the cone (possibly one end of the veil was tied to the hair and wrapped round, with the free end being pulled through the hole at the tip of the cone). However some images show long hair worn loose behind the hennin.

Nowadays, the hennin forms part of the costume of the stereotypical fairy tale princess. There are some manuscript illuminations that show princesses or queens wearing small crowns either round the brim or at the top of the hennin; it is likely that the very small crown of Margaret of York, Duchess of Burgundy (now in the Treasury of Aachen Cathedral) was worn like this for her famously lavish wedding celebrations in 1468.

Escoffion

The Escoffion was a style of headdress that became largely popular in France in the mid-sixteenth century. It was a style of hood that was oval-shape and sat at the back of the head, therefore showing off a decent amount of hair.  It may be possible that the Escoffion was a developed version of the Hennin, a popular style of headdress in the Medieval period. The main difference between this hennin and the escoffion, is, apart from size, the fact that there is also a veil surrounding the hennin.

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